Bandhani, also known as Bandhej, is an ancient form of tie-dye textile art native to India, predominantly practiced in the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. The term “Bandhani” is derived from the Sanskrit word “Bandh,” meaning “to tie.” This intricate craft involves tying small sections of fabric tightly with thread before dyeing it, resulting in unique, patterned designs. Bandhani fabrics are highly valued for their vibrant colors, complex patterns, and cultural significance, often worn on special occasions like weddings and festivals.
Bandhani is renowned for its characteristic dot, circle, square, and stripe patterns, created by the intricate tying technique. Each pattern, or motif, has a specific cultural or symbolic meaning. For instance, small dots represent “Bindi,” while larger motifs symbolize fertility, prosperity, or protection from evil. Popular Bandhani designs include "Leheriya" (waves), "Mothra" (checks), "Ekdali" (single knot), and "Shikari" (depicting animals and birds). The motifs and styles vary according to regional traditions and the occasion for which the fabric is made. In Rajasthan, red and yellow Bandhani saris are often worn by brides, symbolizing prosperity and marital bliss.
History
Bandhani traces its origins back over 5,000 years, making it one of the oldest forms of textile decoration in India. Historical records show that Bandhani fabrics were used in ancient civilizations, such as the Indus Valley. Depictions from the Ajanta Caves (around the 6th century) also show evidence of this art form. The craft flourished under royal patronage, particularly during the Mughal period, when Bandhani textiles were embraced by royalty and nobility for their aesthetic appeal and symbolic meanings. Gujarat and Rajasthan have remained the epicenters of Bandhani production, where artisans have passed down the craft through generations.
Material and Method
Bandhani is typically created using fabrics like cotton, silk, or georgette. The process begins with the fabric being tightly tied into small knots using a thread, based on the desired pattern. These knotted sections resist the dye when the fabric is immersed, resulting in the characteristic patterns. Artisans may use natural or synthetic dyes, and the fabric can undergo multiple rounds of tying and dyeing to achieve complex, multi-colored patterns. The tying is done by hand, often requiring precision and patience, as a single piece can take several days to complete.
Yes, Bandhani can be customized to fit specific design preferences, such as particular colors, patterns, or fabric types. Many artisans offer bespoke services, allowing you to create a unique piece that reflects your personal style.