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21.0 × 21.0 in · Embroidery thread on Cloth
3-4 weeks
Takes approximately 3 weeks to handcraft
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This is an intricate textile panel with different living embroidery patterns of Kachchh, celebrating the distinctness and deep-rootedness of the various communities and their culture residing in this region of Gujarat.
The Ahir and Meghwaad Gurjar Embroidery has been worked on a blue ground; this square unfolds into a symmetrical medallion in warm gold-yellow with red and orange, radiating outward like a stylised flower. Practised jointly by the Ahir and Meghwaad Gurjar communities, this embroidery is known for being bright, bold, and mirror-rich, with large motifs of flowers, birds, and animals, including two figurative forms, the Kaanudo representing Lord Krishna and the mahiyaari, or milkmaid. The outlines here are built with the saankdi stitch, filled in with the vaano stitch, and finished with daano or bakhiyo highlighting along the edges. Small mirrors are placed at the centre. The overall effect is dense, celebratory, and unmistakably festive.
The Sodha Jadeja Pakko Embroidery is set against a blue ground; this piece presents a solid, densely worked medallion in magenta, green, cream, and yellow, radiating from a central point in symmetrical quadrants. Pakko, meaning 'solid-strong', is the defining quality of this style practised by the Sodha and Jadeja communities, built primarily with the open, elongated cheereli saankdi stitch to render floral, animal, and bird forms. Small mirrors and the daano, a single unit of the saankdi stitch, lighten what would otherwise be an extremely dense surface. The dark ground here intensifies the contrast of the fill colours. Its tightly closed, armour-like coverage is characteristic of Pakko work.
The Sodha-Jadeja Neran Embroidery is worked on a blue ground; this square is built entirely from a dense grid of square mirrors repeated across the fabric, surrounded by thread work in yellow, green, pink, and purple. Neran embroidery, also practised by the Sodha and Jadeja communities, uses this tiny eye-shaped form as its fundamental building block: each unit is outlined in a dark colour, filled with a bright one, and highlighted in white. The small mirrors set within the grid add sparkle to the otherwise flat, all-over pattern. The result reads almost like a woven textile rather than embroidery, owing to its regularity. The tight repetition across the entire field is the hallmark of this technique.
The Rabaari Embroidery is a large, stylised floral motif in white, yellow, and red. Rabaari embroidery uses the elongated saankdi stitch to build large, stylised motifs of animals and birds, camels, peacocks, scorpions, and occasionally elephants, with yellow and white as its principal colours. The thorn-like highlights that ring the motif and the mirrors of varying shapes are both signature features of this community's work. The bold, graphic silhouette is instantly recognisable even from a distance. Mirrors are worked into the motif itself, adding texture and shine.
The Meghwaad-Maru Soof Embroidery is filled with a tight, symmetric, and geometric composition in yellow, red, green, magenta, and violet, its precision suggesting the discipline of counted work. Soof is a counted-thread embroidery practised by the Meghwaad Maaru community, considered exceptionally difficult to render since no drawing guides the craftswomen; the geometric design is composed mentally and built by counting the threads of the fabric. It is worked from the reverse side of the cloth, so that the front, seen here, displays a fine, dense finish often mistaken for machine embroidery. Its clean geometry sets it apart from the more curvilinear styles nearby in the panel.
The Mutva-Katari Embroidery square is densely covered edge to edge with small cross-stitch units in magenta, green and yellow, forming an all-over diamond lattice, with mirror accents forming a cross pattern across the embroidery. The basic motif of Katari embroidery, practised by the Mutva community, is a square bordered by tiny white squares, filled with rectangular bars stacked in a pyramid formation. The density of stitching leaves almost no bare ground visible, giving the surface a richly textured, beaded appearance. This geometric style relies on precise, repeated counting rather than drawn outlines. Its regular structure creates a shimmering, mosaic-like effect.
The Jat Garaasiya Embroidery square is filled with a network of small cross-stitches arranged in interlocking diagonal lines that form a continuous mosaic. Jat Garaasiya is a counted-thread embroidery practised exclusively by women of specific Kutchi Jat sub-groups, worked almost entirely in a tiny cross stitch rendered in double thread. The squares and rectangles that make up the design are first outlined, then filled with colours like red and white and small mirrors. The dense, tile-like regularity of the pattern closely recalls Islamic geometric tilework. This piece's restrained two-tone palette lets the geometric structure read clearly.
The Node-Pakko Embroidery is a bold circular mandala in red, yellow, white, and green that radiates from the mirror at the centre of this square, its spoked rays reaching almost to the corners. Node-Pakko embroidery, practised by the Node community, is known for creating this kind of big, bold universe of circular floral motifs, highlighted with large mirrors. The dense stitching across the wheel creates a raised, embossed texture that is one of the easiest ways to identify Node work at a glance. The scale of the motif here dominates the square, leaving little of the ground exposed. Its vivid, wheel-like symmetry gives it strong visual presence within the panel.
The Mutwa-Pakko Embroidery is a cross-symmetrical floral motif in magenta and green that spreads outward in flowing, vine-like tendrils, outlined in white. This embroidery, practised by the Mutva community, is recognised by its curvilinear motifs and borders, outlined using the saankdi stitch (which the Mutvas call the aak), then filled with a variety of stitches and highlighted in white with the bakhiyo stitch. The floral motif known as the chakan nu phool is frequently paired with this style, and traces of a similar floral form are visible here. Its flowing lines contrast with the rigid geometry of the neighbouring squares. The style's popularity among Mutva craftswomen owes much to this colourful, fluid quality.
The Jat-Daaneta Embroidery square presents a dense grid of small orange and red rectangles, each centred with a tiny mirror. Jat-Daaneta is a sturdy, dense embroidery style that uses only two stitches: the open saankdi stitch builds the rectangles and squares, while the satin stitch, worked in radiating patterns, fills them in. The mirrors set within each unit lighten what is otherwise a heavily covered, block-like surface. The regimented, brick-like layout gives this style a particularly sturdy, architectural feel. Its restrained palette lets the grid structure stand out clearly.
The Mutva-Mukko Embroidery is a cross-symmetrical medallion worked largely in gold and cream metallic thread that fills the centre of the square, as the blue ground gets highlighted through the design. Mukko embroidery, practised by the Mutva community, is recognised by its generous use of gold or silver metallic thread to build motifs and borders. Mutva craftswomen acknowledge that they acquired this style from the Haalepotra community, while noting proudly that they have since transformed it with a distinctive Mutva signature. The dark ground here makes the metallic thread glint prominently. Its ornamental, jewel-like density sets it apart from the flatter geometric styles nearby.
The Meghwaad-Maaru Khaarek Embroidery nests cross-stitch patterns in white and yellow on a red, green, yellow, and blue ground, as it radiates from the centre of the square, punctuated by small mirrors at their points. This counted-thread style, also practised by the Meghwaad Maaru community, takes its name from the Kutchi word for the date fruit, khaarek, and features both simple and complex geometric forms. The outlines of its squares and rectangles are first built in a dark colour, then filled in with the satin stitch in a range of bright colours, with mirrors providing the final flourish. The layered, diamond-within-diamond structure seen here is typical of the style's more complex compositions. Its geometric restraint distinguishes it from the freer Soof pattern seen earlier in the panel.
The Mutva-Chopad Embroidery square is filled with a dense, interlocking pattern in dark blue, yellow, and red, cross-stitched with tiny mirrors. Chopad, from the Sindhi word choras meaning square, is a geometric style practised by the Mutva community, built from a small square unit with five very tiny white squares at each corner, connected by rectangular bars. The very small mirrors used throughout, which the Mutvas call takk, are a defining feature of this embroidery. The tight, repetitive grid gives the surface an almost woven density. Its warm ground colour sets off the cooler blue stitching within it.
The Haalepotra-Kambiro Embroidery is worked on a dark navy ground; sparse lines of yellow threads that step diagonally across the square in light, airy zigzag diamonds, leaving much of the dark ground visible. Kambiro, meaning the simple running stitch, is used by the Haalepotra community to build these geometric forms resembling ascending and descending steps, with a satin-stitch detail also worked into the design. Unlike the densely packed styles elsewhere in this panel, Kambiro's sparing use of thread lets the dark ground itself become part of the composition. This restraint gives the embroidery a light, almost minimalist quality. Its stepped geometry is a clear, recognisable signature of Haalepotra work.
The Sodha-Jadeja Neran Embroidery reappears in a different colourway, worked in yellow and red, filling the square with its familiar dense, cross-symmetrical grid, with small mirrors precisely placed. Practised by the Sodha and Jadeja communities, this repeat pattern relies on consistency and precision rather than a central focal motif. The warmer maroon ground gives this version a richer, more saturated feel than its cooler cousin earlier in the panel. Its tightly regimented texture again recalls a woven fabric more than embroidery.
The Mochi-Aari Embroidery is a large, shaded floral rosette in blended tones of red and orange that fills the centre of this dark navy square, its petals appearing to melt gradually from dark to light. Mochi-Aari is celebrated for exactly this soft, painting-like effect, achieved using only one stitch, a very fine saankdi stitch, worked in graduating shades of the same colour. The motifs in this style are almost always floral, and gold or silver thread is occasionally added for a more regal finish. Aari work is produced using a hooked needle called an awl, on lightweight fabric stretched taut over a wooden frame. The gentle colour gradation here gives the motif a rounded, almost three-dimensional appearance.
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| Title | The Violet Panel of Living Embroideries |
| Artist | Embroidery |
| Art Style | |
| Medium | Embroidery thread |
| Size | Medium |
| Dimension | 21 in(H) X 21 in(W) |
| Themes | Folk Art |
| Color | Multicoloured |
| Country of Origin | , India |
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